Well, I'm back in England, and I'm in for a week of some serious penny pinching due to my recent rock and roll lifestyle. Seriously, going from fabulous meals, chocolate, wine, pastries and coffee to pasta, pb and j, tuna, and yogurt will be a bit of a shock, but worth it for the week I just had.
This week was Student Enrichment Week or Independent Study Week, and let me tell you, I did some serious "learning" in the Czech Republic and Austria. I started my enrichment in Prague. Which was fantastic! It's one of my five. I have 5 cities I want to visit before I die. (Valencia, Prague, Edinburgh, Avignon, and Florence.) This trip I get to cross 3 off the list. Many people ask me, why Prague?
Which I answer, why not? Prague is famous for castles, beer, and the arts. Hello? Sounds pretty great to me. Mozart's Don Giovanni premiered in Prague, but don't remind the Austrian's of that. They are very protective of Mozart. Kind of like the battle between IL and KY for Lincoln. Prague has the biggest castle in Europe, one more fun fact: Czech's drink more beer than anyone else, and average of 2 liters a day. We stayed at a hostel that has been voted for by Hostel World and RyanAir Magazine as the best hostel in Europe. I have to agree with them. It is by far the best and cleanest hostel I'v
e stayed in, and frankly I've stayed in some great hostels. We had great breakfast, great showers, comfortable beds, a bar downstairs that boasted 8 different kinds of Czech beer, tons of info/discounts, free wifi, a sink in the room(that's big), and all for the low price of 11 bucks a bed! Fabulous! We took a great free walk tour that was 3 hours. I learned so much, that's without the sarcastic lilt. The Czech people have been to hell and back. The most interesting thing is how fresh communism still is to the population. A dark history has given them a very dark sense of humor. For example, our second day we ventured about an 1 1/2 outside of Prague (And when I say we I am referring to my fearless partner in crime, Catherine from O-K-L-A-H-O-M-A!) to a
small mining town, Kuna Hora. We went to the Ossuary, a church that has been decorated using the bones from 40,000 dead bodies, all human. Yummy. When I say completely decorated using bones I am not exaggerating, every inch is covered in bones and skulls, from the chandelier that contains every bone from the human body to these quaint little candle holders I am posing with in the picture. We ate at this adorable cottage on the hill and I innocently order Czech ribs, only 8 bucks I figured I'd only get a rack or two. I got 5 racks of ribs. 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 racks of ribs! The waiter laughed at me when I came out my eyes were bugging out of my head! Catherine, and I say this with love, is a human garbage disposal. Girl can eat better than the boys back home! Frankly I'm impressed
with her. She had to help me finish, and she still wanted dessert. For the first time in my travels in Europe I had to refuse. I know, right? I was really glad we took the out to Kuna Hora. They also specialize in ceramics, and I finally found a tart warmer like my mom has. I have been looking for one of these for ever. Surprisingly it made back from Kuna Hora, to Prague, to Vienna, to England, let's hope it makes it back to the states in one piece. Also in Kuna Hora, I had me first glass of warm apple cider this season. Something I have been craving. In Prague, we went to a somewhat touristy bagelery and NOT only did I get an everything bagel but also pumpkin pie. I love the Czech Republic! We did a creepy bar crawl that started in the crypt of an old church, but honestly I can't say too much about that night because we got free shots. O well, we went some great people, but I don't remember their names! We did make it back to the hostel safe and sound though. I'm really glad Daddy wasn't in Prague because we learned that their are more crossing pedestrian accidents in Prague then any other city in the world. Because I spent some much time talking about food in this blog, I feel obliged to tell you that we decided to go to the top of the basilica for some great view. It was about 300 narrow steps. All the places we ate were on top of steep hills too so we worked for the calories! After 3 fabulous days in Prague, we hoped a train to Austria and let me say, I really prefer train traveling to stupid planes. No security checks, no massive queues, private compartments, plugs for your computer, big comfy seats, leg room, no border control, amazing views, fewer screaming babies, I mean, why does anyone fly?? The only thing that I missed about not being in an airport was duty free shopping. That's a small price to pay. Although, this train did not have a trolley of treats like the others did, we were sort of counting on it to spend the rest of our Czech money and obviously to eat. By the time we got off, we were really grumpy and starving. Vienna, although lovely, is far from a 24/hr city. Frankly it's even worse than Stockholm in that sense. We really searched to find food, but once we did and got settled into to our strange hostel we were ready to begin the next leg of our adventure. What to say about the Labyrinth Hostel...you get what you pay for would be the best description. It wasn't dirty or gross, just weird. However both receptionist gave us the quotes of semester, but I'll get to that later. Here's an anaolgy, we went from the Plaza in Manhattan to the Econolodge next to a truck stop. However, the location was brilliant for I can't complain too much and like I said, reception was great, but we knew we were in for it when he dramatically turned to us and simply stated, "Welcome to the Labyrinth." Epic, right? As usual, we got up bright and early to start our one full day in Vienna, we asked for directions to the Belvedere, a palace turned art mueseum, we asked the same man who welcomed us, he gave us comprehensive instructions on where to go and what to see and then said, "Ah, well the Belvedere's nice too." Talk about an understatement. The Belvedere is fantastic. It has about permanent galleries with 3 rooms of Klimt, Austrian galleries, famous Baroque and Romantic painters and two rotating galleries- one had Rodin's sculptures and the other a modern artist. Also, it was a summer palace for the prince with outstanding gardens and ballrooms. Nice too...lordy. Since we had such a limited time in Vienna, it was the perfect summation of the culture. I will say with the aid of out litter guidebook I gave a fantastic walking tour of everything else! Sort of. It was free. We had heard shopping in Prague sucked so we were planning on shopping in Vienna, well we couldn't afford anything! It was ok, we went to the ballet that night at the State Opera house. We saw 2 Balachine pieces, one Twyla Tharp piece, and a rather famous piece called The Vertinginous Thrill of Exactitude (I'm sure that's spelled wrong). It was an amazing experience, even though we were on the top row of the top balcony. What'd you expect for 20 euro. It was the perfect allegory for our time in Austria, the first ballet was less than overwhelming, the second was a taste of excitement but the choreography was very fluid and had a bit of a rushed feeling, Exactitude was the Belvedere, and Rubies (the other Balachine and one of the best ballets I've ever seen) was Salzburg! That doesn't make much sense reading it, but to Catherine and I it was quite a revelation!
In Salzburg we took the Sound of Music tour, which was sort of false advertising. Half the tour we just drove by famous locations because the bus or group was too big to go into them, but Salzburg and the lakes were so freaking incredible it didn't bother me that we would have been better getting a list of locations for the movie and a map! Salzburg is the one place so far that I feel I NEED, NEED, NEED to go back. It was beautiful, quaint, comfortable, green, stunning, tasty, I really barely have words to describe it. I simply didn't have enough time in that place. The two locations we could actually go into were the church Maria gets married Liesl's in gazebo, both awesome. Plus, we got sing in the bus, which I loved. Those are lyrics you never forget. For those of you who don't know, Sound of Music was my first place, I was 8. "My name's Marta, and I want a pink parasol for my birthday." My first line. So this was a big deal for me. I thought I was going to be the most embarrassing super fan ,but the majority of the people on the tour were just like me. We also got the most amazing strudel ever with vanilla cream sauce. My mouth is watering just thinking about it!
10 days until Elizabeth and Harry Potter
13 days until Mom and Dad
20 days until my birthday and Scotland
1 month until Royal Shakespeare season in London
1 month and 10 days until I'm stateside
Cheers yall
Carolyn
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